Archive for April, 2008
How to make 50 cal. frangible bullets
I wrote this back in college. (I have always wanted to say that.) I don’t suspect anyone will ever do this, but if you want to, respond directly to me. I have only posted this because I think some parts are funny and will get a reaction, especially from the Illinois (no E) skunk lady.
Using 2.5” length brass (I use 7mm Redneck Magnum because I don’t shoot one and the brass is found nearly everywhere one may think to shoot):
Optional (1): decap, saving primer cup. Replace anvil with #6 lead shot. This supposedly prevents powder gas from punching through weakened primer cup and blowing lead shot all over inside of bore and muzzle brake. I used to do this, but do so no longer.
Anneal: place brass upright in ½” deep water (in a pan). In a darkened room, heat brass with torch (propane or butane); heat to dull red color, but do not burn zinc off by heating too hot or too long. I heat down one inch from case mouth. Search the Internet if you need any clarification on annealing. Several people have posted experiences on their sites that are very helpful.
Lube: lube case body with Imperial sizing wax; apply sparingly!!
Size (1): size annealed brass in die #1.
Fill: fill brass to desired weight with lead shot.
At this point, some commentary is in order. One may be interested in different filler materials or different bullet weights. I looked for #12 shot, but couldn’t find any for a reasonable price, so I use #9. You could use larger shot, but the larger void spaces will lighten the bullets (undesirable to me). I have dabbled with lead filings; these are more dense than shot and may also have different terminal results. However, the supply is sporadic at best and I doubt that the form of lead matters much at impact velocities over 2200fps. I have also dabbled with powdered tungsten (W). One must note the label on the storage container: avoid contact between powdered tungsten and nitrates. This has certain implications that may be very desirable. However, the cost of powdered tungsten may outweigh the very desirable density or terminal results. One could try casting or swaging cores, but that isn’t my desired product. One could also try plastics, other metals, even different forms of metals, such as are used in novelty shotgun shells, but I have no experience here. Wink.
Size (2): sparingly relube brass (arguably a bullet at this point, so I will refer to it as such now) and size with die #2. If you have not filled the bullet at this point, do so now, unless you wish to place shot individually into the bullet after the next step.
Size (3): place a closure atop filler charge and size bullet in die #3. I have experienced some shot loss from finished bullets when the hole in the forward end of the bullet (hollow point, if you will) doesn’t close fully. A larger piece of shot (like #4) will work for this purpose, or you could opt for modeling clay (works for me) or even molten lead (I haven’t tried this yet).
This step produces a nearly finished bullet. If your bullet has dimples, you are over-lubing, just as if you are resizing brass for reloading. Don’t fret, though, as the bullet will still be the most devastating non-incendiary bullet you can imagine. Although, I have never used sintered copper 50 caliber bullets…
Turn: chuck bullet, belt exposed, in a lathe. Center the bullet for concentricity with the bullet body. A split bushing is best for repeatability and consistency, but you can directly chuck in jaws and with a little attention produce a concentric bullet base. Again, if you need clarification, search the ‘net or just take your little(?) bundles of love to a machinist for finishing. Turn. I turn the base of my bullets to 0.510”. You may want or need to do something different depending on your bore, but I will let you iron that out on your own. I also cut off the case rim, producing some semblance of a rebated boat tail bullet. I do this for one reason: the bullets feed better into the case mouths of brass while reloading. I am premeditatedly lazy and this is proof.
Optional (2): coat bullets. I found cartridge brass to foul badly, so I moly coat. I dislike the messes created by moly, but I have enough to coat everything I own, so that is what I use. I use a dedicated bowl for my Dillon vibratory and 1/8” glass beads. Even more than with Imperial sizing wax, a little goes a long way!
Reloading notes: I load a lot of API to 5.25”. This is spec for military ammo, I believe. And since I am lazy, I use that setting for my seating die. The rounds are a lot longer than API or ball, but they fit my chamber and that is all I care about. You may have a different experience. I also use the same powder charges as I do for API, since the bullet weight is similar (640 grains for my bullets) and my bullets are slick due to the moly coating. Look at reloadersnest.com if you want load data, or search the ‘net. Or ask around. Just don’t ask me, because I won’t tell you. I don’t want to wonder if I caused your gun to rupture (see Bluegrass Armory’s test of their gun). If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact me.
Terminal results: My initial tests were on 1-gallon milk jugs filled with water. Numbered and set in-line with my bore at 25 yards, I commenced shooting. WOW! The first jug emptied and had a one-inch exit hole. The second in line had a 1.5-inch entrance and the back ripped totally open, like with a 22-250 or 308. Some shot remained in the second in line. The third jug disappeared. Three of us scoured the area, but found nothing. The lids from the first two jugs were in the vicinity, but the lid from the third was gone (remember they were numbered, both the lids and the jugs). The fourth remained unscathed. Not so much as a pellet hole!
I shot a 275# black bear at 75 yards. He was broadside and level with me for both shots. The first bullet hit one inch into his shoulder from the rear. It angled into his opposing shoulder and did not exit. I waited about 10 seconds to fire the second shot because I wanted to see what was happening but I got nervous as he turned around. The second bullet hit one inch behind the shoulder (he turned 180 degrees) and exited one inch behind the opposite side shoulder (the initial shoulder), two inches behind the first entrance hole. The exit wound was approx 3” diameter. He fell dead upon impact, as if the Hammer of Thor had struck him at full swing. When I gutted him, his lungs were just gone. Some reddish lung-paste remained, as did his badly bruised heart, diaphragm, liver and spleen. Needless to say, I was impressed.
I have shot a few marmots, as well. The most memorable was shot from 25 degrees above. It was hit from behind, in the body, just where the tail starts. The pelvis and rear legs remained in place, with the front forelegs connected by small strips of hide. The rest disappeared. Literally gone. Three of us searched for 10 minutes for parts, especially the head, but found nothing. NOTHING! At that point I realized we are onto something. And the fun began.
“Go forth, young man, and shoot a toilet,” I heard the voice say. And then…